how tight are exhaust manifold studs on a harley,got one broken off in the side just in front of frame?

6 Comments

1. vtwin_doc says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   They are in TIGHT. They usually require heating with a torch and the use of a stud extractor if there is enough of the stud left to grab on to. If a stud ectractor won’t work, head removal is usually required to be able to drill into the stud and then extract it. If the head has to be removed, you have to remove the cylinder and replace the cylinder base o-ring, also it is advisable that you replace all the gaskets and seals on the other cylinder as well….just to insure everything is fresh and this will also allow for inspection to make sure everything with the engine is good.

   EDIT: The guy below mentioned using "easy-outs"……..THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED……the angle on which these studs are in REQUIRES the use of a special tool for drilling….The JIMS TOOLS EXHAUST STUD DRILL JIG………..http://www.jimsusa.com/online_catalogs.php

   EDIT IN REPONSE TO MUSHKI…..MushMouth…..
   As MushMouth stated "There once was a time when…", those days are long gone for people that want the job done right. Why do you think that the bikes and cars of the "there once was time" era were such crap? It’s because of neccessity and lack of knowledge…….they did what they had to do and in the only fashion they knew how. The "average" person today wants the job done right the first time so they don’t have to pay to fix it again.
   MushMouth knows NOTHING about HD’s, if he did, he would know that due to the location and angle of the exhaust studs, you generally can’t gain access to them with a drill, the frame is in the way. And that if you do not drill PERFECTLY STRAIGHT into the stud and remove it perfectly straight, the new stud will go in crooked and you will not be able to get the flange back on it AND you could possibly destroy the head.
   I see all to often, people trying to do their own work that don’t have a clue as to what they are doing and screw something up, causing them to take it to a shop and have them fix what they screwed up and it’s cost double or more than what it would have cost if they had just had the job done right the first time. Although these 2 examples are minor compared to you job at hand, these are 2 PRIME EXAMPLES………
   1.Open QuestionShow me another »
   OH NO MY HARLEY !!!!!!! HELP !!!!?
   Ok I just screwed up and accidentally put transmission fluid where my oil goes and started it up. I really didn’t notice it till I looked at the bottle when throwing it away. I did not ride it but it did run for about 4 or 5 minutes. Please advise if I have done any damage and what I should do next.
   1 day ago - 3 days left to answer.
   Additional Details
   I was really low on oil and added about a whole quart of tran fluid to my oil
   1 day ago

   2.Open QuestionShow me another »
   Where do i drain the trans fluid on my 2006 heratige softail?
   i see where i fill it, but where do i empty the trans fluid?
   First off……If you are planning on working on your bike, you need to buy a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. It will save you time, money and headaches, and will pay for itself by answereing questions as simple as this.
   The drain plug for the trans is located under the bike between the two shocks. You will need a 1/4" allen socket on a short extension.

   MushMouth apparenttly doesn’t know what decade this is…..the days of MOST do-it-yourself’ers are almost gone…..mechanics’ apprenticeships do not exist anymore…here is a question that he and myself answered……..

   QUESTION:
   Resolved QuestionShow me another »
   Information on the Iron 883?
   I’m a car guy just now getting into bikes, and without a doubt the 883 will be my first bike. I’m just wondering if you can tune bikes? I read somewhere somebody said something about being "detuned to 43 hp" Not sure.

   Also, What would be most beneficial to get into between a car mechanic or bike mechanic.

   MUSHMOUTH’S ANSWER:
   Skirtsters are girls bikes. No reason to waste time or money "tuning" an 883-it will never be fast.
   No real need to pay someone to teach you to be a mechanic, just start out at the dealership changing oil. I’m sure you’ll move up before you would have finished school

   MY REPLY:
   Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
   First of all Mushki doesn’t seem to know much at all about what he is talking about…There is not a reputable shop in this country that will hire you with no experience to just change oil and learn from them. There are some bikes out there that if you don’t know the procedure to bleed the oil system, you can fry the engine within a few minutes….YES THERE IS ACTUALLY AN ENGINE MADE MADE BY AN AMERICAN MANUFACTURER THAT REQUIRES YOU TO BLEED THE OIL SYSTEM, SIMILAR TO BLEEDING BRAKES!!! And, there is no way in hell you can learn on your own, the technical procedures for all the different makes and models of motorcycles…it REQUIRES EDUACATION AND TRAINING. I have been working on bikes since the late 80’s, started with my Shovelhead and my friends all had Shovels, Pans and IronHead Sportsters, then I bought an ‘86 Softail with an Evo that had some extensive engine work done to it that needed some repair, although the bottom ends were almost the same, the top ends were a little different. It was at that point, I realized I could make a decent living do this, so I enrolled at MMI and graduated from HD’s program in 1991, spent 5 years at 2 different dealerships, and then went into the custom field, I have built a couple BEST OF SHOW bikes, but super high-end bikes ($50k and above) are a royal pain the *ss to work on, ever been afraid to work on a bike with a $6,000 paint job or a $12,000 billet engine, due to fear of scratching it???…**** DOES happen, and eventually will!!! If anyone has ever dealt with a Big Dog or American Ironhorse bike, they know the electrics are not wired like old-school HD’s…if you haven’t been trained by them, you do not know what you are doing……Big Dog manuals are almost impossible to get by the public, if you aren’t one of their dealers or svc centers…good luck…American Ironhorse doesn’t (didn’t) even make a service manual.
   The new Harleys are all but impossible to work on now if you are not a delaer, their electrics and computer system can only be access by HD’s Digital Technician….a DEALER ONLY computer that is linked directly to the factory…and guess what, there is no way to learn how to use it unless you go to school for it. I spent 12 years working on the manufactured "customs", I was an R&D builder for Titan and Stroker Cycles, I have been trained by Big Dog, American Ironhorse, Indian, S&S Cyle and have been to DynoJet’s facility for Dyno Operation and Tuning certification. With the economy the way it is right now, the custom market has fallen off, so I decided to return to MMI last year to get certified on HD’s late model bikes, I graduated in May….and guess what, I have to return AGAIN next winter, my dealership is sending me back for updating on production changes that took place with last years Dresser models and for the changes in the 2010 models…..education never ends. My specialty is Performance Engine Building and Dyno Tuning…I make over $65K a year, which isn’t bad, but you asked what would be more beneficial….cars or bikes? The answer to that is definitely CARS…..a good car tech can make $100-150K a year…..unless you own the delaership or are the world’s best flat-rate tech with absolutely no comebacks what-so-ever, you will never make that much working on bikes.

   TO SOLVE THE EASY-OUT & STUD EXCTRACTOR DEBATE………SOME PEOPLE JUST DON’T HAVE A FREAKIN’ CLUE……

   THESE ARE EASY-OUTS…..
   http://www.toolprice.com/c=xLNeMkcth1d6PMPEYTtelsLoR/category/screwextractors.spiraleasyout/

   THESE ARE STUD EXTRACTORS….
   http://www.mysimon.com/prices/kd-tools-stud-extractor?utm_source=ypi&utm_medium=cpc

   TWO TOTALLY DIFFERENT TOOLS!!!!
2. pmk says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   more than likely, you will need remove using a stud extractor commonly referred to as an easy-out.

   best to take a center punch and hammer, center the center punch on the broken stud and hit sharply with the hammer. this should give you a center mark on the broken stud where you can drill a hole into approximately the center of the broken stud… use great caution to not let the drill bit center slip off and destroy the threads the stud screws into. once you have drilled a small pilot hole, move to a bit larger drill bit and clean the hole out to fit a bolt extractor (easy-out). the thread extractor should screw into the drilled hole as a right hand threading motion. as the extractor gets tighter, it will be applying an unscrewing motion on the broken stud, hopefully unthreading it out of the hole.

   the stud extractor can be purchased at any major auto parts supplier like NAPA, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. relatively cheap ($5-10).
3. Spencer says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   Listen to Vtwin_Doc, or your going to be spending a lot more money on this job than the tool would cost.
4. mushki says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   The guy who stated easy-out is right on.

   There once was a time when nearly everyone did their own work on cars, trucks, bikes, tractors you name it. No one ran to a shop, the guy ranting about taking it in is a mechanic, what do you think he’s going to say. Just be sure to line it up correctly. Center punch it as stated and be nuts on with the drill, do not rush it, take your time and you will be fine.
5. Firecracker . says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   Mine pulled out of the head when I tried to take the nuts off.
   If there’s any (enough) thread left try double nutting them.
   A stud extractor may be called for. I myself would do the un-professional thing and try a pair of Vise-grips.
   If they don’t come easily, it’s time for a mechanic.
   No sense in making things worse.

   Take all advice with a grain of salt. Many of us have been incorrect in the past, intentional or not.
   I don’t hold with continuing an argument within a different question. Good people tend to lower themselves.

   P.S. A stud extractor is NOT an easy out - it is an entirely different tool.
6. KelleyXR says:

   October 2, 2009 at 7:15 pm

   I beg to differ on the p.s. that an easy out & bolt extractor are not the same tool…

   http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/

   easy outs come in both spiral & square and they are specifically designed to remove broken bolts / stud.

   anyway, if you have enough of the stud to grip with vise grips, but I would opt to spray with a penetrating oil first a few times and allow to soak in to help break the corrosion up.